Hi ho, hi ho, it's off down the mines we go...

If I asked someone back home what they knew about Chile,  the most frequent reply would unfortunately be that it had mines.  I don't think any British citizen who is up to date with current affairs could have escaped the coverage of the 33 men trapped in the San José mine for 69 days in the northern city of Copiapó in August 2010.  If you did, here's a link to an article bringing the good news that all had been rescued alive and well:http://www.reuters.com/article/2010/10/13/us-chile-miners-idUSN0925972620101013

Looking deeper into the mining history of Chile, you come to realise the sheer extent to which mining of many materials has influenced the countries economy throughout the country's historic past.  Chile has sought its income from resources such as salt peter, iodine and lithium since modern mining of the 19th century, but the real treasure has been found in copper mining. 

Another nationally famous mine is situated just 40 km away from my base in Concepción.  El chiflón del diablo (translation: the devil's draught) was a fully working carbon mine until its closure in 1997, leaving a community who had depended on the mining industry since the mid 19th century to find other means of survival.  The mine's interesting, and let's face it, slightly creepy name has its origins in the noise made by the breeze blowing through the 850m of tunnelling through this naturally ventilated mine.  It is, in fact, the only mine of its kind open to the public in the world.  Well worth a visit then I think you will agree!  In addition, to increase the element of mystery and excitement, and to an extent, danger, of this underground wonder, it is also situated 1.2km under the Pacific ocean. Nothing to worry about then! Unless you consider the relatively frequent risk of earth tremours....

To add to the celebrity status of this unique mine, it was used to film the 2003 Chilean movie "Subterra" based on the 1904 novel of the same title by Lota-born Baldomero Lillo Figueroa.  This novel, studied by many in Chilean schools, told the fate, trials and tribulations of miners working under the unfavourable conditions of the aristocratic family in charge of the mine.
You can watch the film here:  http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9D90E82A5C2F2DC0

Despite the loss of jobs for the Lota community that inevitably arrived with the closure of the mine, some of the miners found new careers after the mine was converted into a key tourist attraction of the Bío Bío region.  They are extremely invaluable to the mine experience, thanks to their expert knowledge of the terrain, safety issues and the history of generations of workers, as mining in this community was a traditional profession passed down through the family.

Before plummeting 1200m below into the darkness, each visitor must be geared up with a battery back, head torch and helmet.  Once fitted, you are taken on a journey through time, and literally to the back yard, where the set of the film acts as a life-size replica of living quarters and the local shop as it would have looked in the 19th century.  The wooden structures around an open courtyard give you a sense of doom and gloom as soon as you set foot upon their creaky floorboards.  The actual living space seems adequate, until you learn that this would have been shared by families, and therefore said space would undoubtedly have been fought over.  Sharing seemed to be something the miners had to get used to. The beds were nicknamed "camas calientes" or warm beds, due to two or more miners having to use the same beds in shifts, meaning that the bed would always be warm on arrival due to your workmate having just vacated it.

Throughout the tour you are informed of a wide variety of vocabulary and expressions, such as "cama caliente", each with its own story and origin.  You can find a dictionary of miner vocabulary here: http://perso.wanadoo.es/proyeccionfm/paginas/Vocabulario_minero.htm

In the downstairs area of the property artefacts from the time are displayed carefully to show the kitchen appliances, washing equipment and furniture used in that period. It all looked very authentic and gave you a real sense of what life would have been like in those days.  I do, however, have to question the authenticity of the leopard print blouse hanging on the washing line!

The shop was stocked with large packages of flour and other essentials.  The layout and products on offer shared a similarity with replicas of rations in wartime England of the 1940s.

Next comes the short walk to the gaping mouth of the devil's draught, and your last glimpse of sunlight for the next 45 minutes, which believe me, felt more like 45 hours.  Read all about my experience in the only mine of its kind in the world in my next post, coming very soon...


Bibliography

http://www.alumni.tu-berlin.de/fileadmin/Redaktion/ABZ/PDF/TUI/69/TUI69_Staniewska.pdf

http://www.miningmural.com/

http://www.reuters.com/article/2010/10/13/us-chile-miners-idUSN0925972620101013

http://www.swedishtrade.se/PageFiles/134534/Chile%20Mining%20Swedish%20Trade%20Council.pdf#

http://www.patrimoniochileno.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=220:chiflon-del-diablo&catid=28:ciudades-y-monumentos&Itemid=34

http://www.welcomechile.com/concepcion/mina-chiflon-del-diablo.html

http://perso.wanadoo.es/proyeccionfm/paginas/Vocabulario_minero.htm

http://nosencantanlosietesah.bligoo.com/content/view/98082/El-Chiflon-del-Diablo.html#.UPHgV2930rU

And we venture into the wild...

After a day of pure relaxation, we felt prepared to tackle " one of the star park attractions of Chile", Parque Nacional Huerquehue.  This lush green forest packed with gushing waterfalls, placid lakes and brimming with wildlife, is situated just one hour by bus from Pucón.  There are three buses there, and three buses back each day, and unless you want to be ruffing it in the great outdoors with no equipment, being punctual for the last bus back at 5.30pm is essential!

A very misleading map!!

With that in mind, we took the time to seek advice from one of the many park ranger on arrival as to the best trails to follow in the time we had.  He assured us that we could easily do the lakes trail to visit the star attraction, the Laguna Verde, famed for its emerald waters.  As I had already spoken to Chilean friends about the beauty of this lake, and it was also mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide, I felt extremely motivated to reach it and see it for myself.  The guide assured us many times that the lakes trail, there and back, could be done easily in five hours, leaving us plenty of time for stopping, taking photos and admiring the scenery, as long as we were fit and healthy.  Believing that were both of those things, we set off on our journey after a quick breakfast of bread, cheese and coffee.

After one hour's walking, we were in high spirits and looking forward to reaching our destination.  After a pleasant stroll through the woods circling the first lake, we started to encounter difficulties.  It transpired that the guard had neglected to tell us a very important detail regarding the trail.  It was practically vertical!!!

At 1pm we had reached an altitude of 1000m above sea level, and as far as we could tell, we hadn't even reached the middle of the trail!  Without a map, gps, the stars or any other form of navigation or way of knowing how close to the lakes we were, it would have been a large risk to carry on in case we could not make it back down for the bus.

As a compromise, particularly as I was feeling pretty disappointed at not seeing the Laguna Verde, we decided to take two detours to visit the waterfalls in the valley.  We knew that this decision had been the right one when we saw the water jumping from rock to rock and cascading to a plunge pool, although it was still a lot of effort to descend into the valley and back up again to the trail.

We made it back to civilization with forty five minutes to spare, and decided to visit the small local shop located in the park.  We had coffee and conversed with the shop owner, who had been kind enough to keep our belongings for us while we had been in the park.  While sitting on the bench outside, we met Navidad (Translation: Christmas), a large, juicy turkey that judging by its slightly cruel name, was due to be served up for Christmas dinner soon.




As we made our way onto the bus, we were surprised to see that hardly anyone looked as tired as we felt.  It made us wonder how far they had made it up the steep steep slope.  We came to the conclusion, as we had not seen any of the groups on the ascent or descent, that actually nobody reaches the lakes, but nobody tells the guards and they all just pretend that they made it.  Therefore the guards don't know its nearly impossible for the average adult and continue to tell everyone that it is easily achievable in five hours!

At least that's our theory and we are sticking to it!

Despite not reaching our destination, the forests of this place of natural beauty were enchanting.  Walking through the wilderness I felt as if I was on a film set and at any moment a magical creature would jump out at me.  I would definitely recommend visitors of this area of Chile to visit the Parque Nacional Huerquehue.

And so we bathe in volcanic waters...

The Termas Geométricas, a collection of beautiful, natural thermal baths, were a "must see" on our trip to the South of Chile.

Located at just two short bus rides away from our base in Pucón, in the lakeside town of Coñaripe, they are extremely accessible using public transport. Indeed, in general I have been impressed with the public transport system everywhere I have visited in Chile so far.  After a quick look around this bustling hub of shops selling pan amasado, a type of bread cooked in the ashes of a fire to give it a warming, smokey taste, and home-made cheese, honey and jam among other products, we rapidly located our transfer man, Sergio.  Not only was he a mini bus driver, he also doubled up as a font of all knowledge, giving us a guided tour of the surrounding countryside, relaying facts about the Mapuche people who resided there and commenting on life in general!

We passed houses, animals, crops, wood-cutting machinery and even a small, quaint school, all belonging to the Mapuches.  Sergio informed us that there were only about twenty-five students attending the school, and they all spoke both Mapudungun and Castellano.  Apparently, one of the community's main sources of income is selling the wood from the surrounding lands.  We saw men using an enormous electric chainsaw to cut down the trees and slice them into planks, but evidence of previous methods was still visible in the form of old machines that must have been powered by steam as they resembled baby Hogwarts Expresses!

Our guide also showed us the wonders of Mother Nature, as he pointed out how from the root of an old, dead tree, a new one blossoms and is protected from the old bark during its growth.  Absolutely fascinating! Add to all that the river that changes colour depending on the time of day and you've got yourself one very special corner of the world.






The site of the baths really was, as a hippy guy in the hostel had described it, hypnotic.  Picture this: the sound of rushing water behind and in front of the towering rocks lining the area, the sun diffusing through gaps in the trees, everywhere glowing a vibrant, healthy green.  There were waterfalls, streams, and seventeen different pools to choose from.

We practically had this haven to ourselves, meaning that we could take our pick of the baths and come and go as we pleased.  However, we did end up raiding the bath that a couple had been occupying for at least two hours.  Upon entry, we realised why it was so appealing.  The temperature of the water was divine!  I drifted in and out of consciousness, of that I am sure.  I felt slightly hypnotised and in a dreamlike state.

The design of these baths had Japanese culture as its inspiration, with red wooden cabins dotted all over, allowing you to change in peace and serenity.  There definitely was a certain "zen" throughout the area.  I think these baths would be perfect for a romantic honeymoon holiday destination, especially when night falls and four hundred candles are lit, illuminating the calm, smouldering waters.





If I had to choose just one word to sum up the Termas Geométricas, it would have to be "paradise".

And onwards to the Lake District: Chile's answer to Switzerland...

If you are looking for a little corner of Switzerland, complete with placid lakes, gushing waterfalls, greenery blooming everywhere you turn and snow-topped peaks, then look no further than El Chico Sur and the Lake District.  A place full of surprising scenery, magical places and the best German kuchen I've tasted outside Germany!

With Jessica, a Chilean friend from Concepción, I started the cold, exhausting journey from Conce bus station at 12.30am.  It took 4 hours to reach the city of Temuco where we had to wait in the bus station until our connecting bus passed at 5.30am.  I was surprised at how busy the station was at such an early hour.  I was even more surprised at how a little three year old boy was running up and down, up and down the station with such gusto while we were flaking despite copious amounts of coffee!  Oh to be young again!  The lack of sleep was definitely no problem though, as the buses are so comfortable, and all passengers are provided with a pillow and blanket so I had no trouble nodding off when we boarded the second bus and declined back into our "semi-beds".

By the time we arrived at our final destination, picturesque Pucón, the sun had risen and the birds were tweeting merrily.  I could tell the town was going to be quaint, as even the bus station resembled a cosy log cabin.  Ravaged with hunger, we entered the first place that looked likely to serve food, and tucked into a portion of Manjar pancakes; so nice, we ordered them twice!

Our hostel, La Bicicleta, especially noticeable as it was adorned with an old bike perched on the roof, was excellent value for money, providing a twin room for the price of an eight bed dorm in many other establishments.  The host, José, runs the business with his wife, and they also live in the building with their three adorable children.  Having met in Viña, the couple decided they wanted more than a 9 to 5 office job in their home town so they upped and left to start a small bike rental business in San Pedro de Atacama, renting  them from a popular cafe for tourists.  After the birth of their first baby, they decided to follow José's dream of running a hostal and moved to Pucón.  They currently rent the wooden construction, but desire to buy and expand it in the near future.  Every morning we woke up to a wonderful sight as our bedroom window looked onto the towering snow-topped Villarica volcano.  Sometimes the clouds were floating in just the right position to give the impression that it was blowing its top!

The presence of not only Volcán Villarica, but also four other volcanoes in this region alone, reminded me once more that I am currently residing in a country of extreme natural beauty but at times this nature can be devastating to the flora and fauna surrounding it.  There were evacuation signs throughout the town in case of eruption, and later in the trip we were informed that Villarica was one of the most active volcanoes in Chile.  Despite this, hundreds of tourists attempt to reach its summit each year, and it must be said that unfortunately not all succeed.  Needless to say Jessica and I did not take that risk, and instead opted for the enchanting experience provided by the Termas Geométricas.

See my next post to find out about our thermal spa and national park adventures...

And so Marc Anthony wows the Chilean crowd...

Thousands of screaming women, fights for seats, sparkly bandanas, a slick live band, singers shaking their 'tushy' at the request of excited fans...it could only be a Marc Anthony concert!

I've been lucky enough to go to a fair few music concerts in my time.  There is always an electric atmosphere, with excitement and expectation filling the air.  With this in mind, I expected a concert in another country to be very similar to my previous experiences.  How wrong I was!

Picture this: ten thousand ladies of all ages (and the odd grumpy husband dragged along for company) packed like sardines into the local football stadium, being extremely flirty with the performers, singing in unison about the "cute little thing" on stage and chanting that he move his "tail".  Needless to say, Marc Anthony did not disappoint, and granted the wishes of thousands of screaming fans by wiggling his hips and blowing kisses down the microphone, sending the hearts of his fans racing.  I actually thought the woman next to me was going to faint on many occasions, she was so mesmerised by this Puerto Rican god of salsa!

I was surprised that there were still seats left for the gig when we purchased them just three days beforehand.    On arrival at the stadium one hour before "kick-off", the reason was plain; they sold far more tickets than there was space in the stadium.  After scanning the stand for a good ten minutes, we finally spotted an empty space up in the Gods.  However, when we got there, a singular pink scarf was "reserving" the space for girls who had nipped to the loo.  Tati decided that the girls had lost their chance and so sat in the reserved seat, an act which was met with evil eyes and complaints from the entire surrounding crowd!  The atmosphere suddenly turn sinister, as more and more people expressed their distaste of the girls who had moved in to steal spaces. It got to the point where a friend of the absent fans threatened to physically remove Tati from the bench.  Very tense moments!  At my suggestion we joined the squished people on the stairwell, which provided us with a spectacular view of the stage and big screens, although I couldn't help thinking it was a definite health and safety risk to have so many blocking the exit.

Another difference I noticed was the range of souvenirs available.  There was everything from sparkly bandanas displaying the name of the artist to printed cushions of the act's latest poster.  Of course the usual light up wands and devil horns were also for sale.  I bought a hat on the way out, which was pleasingly being sold at half the original price.

The title of the concert was "Los dos gigantes" and so Marc Anthony was joined by another 'legend' Chayanne.  I have to say, apart from physically, Chayanne and his music did nothing for me.  It was a bit too eighties pop for my liking, but his accompanying dancers were extremely talented.

Overall the experience was great, and I am seriously considering going to see another salsa legend, Luis Enrique, next week.

And out to sea we go...

On all my travels I never fail to find some connection to dear old Blighty.  A Saturday afternoon visit to Talcahuano, a nearby town, proved to be no exception to this as I found myself stood on a boat, floating in the Pacific Ocean, which had been used in the war between Peru and Chile in the 1800s, and had been constructed in none other than.... Birkenhead!  I am constantly learning more about my own country while discovering about the lives of others on this planet, which is pretty damn cool if you ask me.

The journey to such a wondrous piece of craftsmanship was not as easy as one originally thought, due to the "trusty" Lonely Planet giving us details of the correct bus route but the wrong direction.  We only realised when, being the only two lone soldiers left on the bus, the driver asked us where we were headed, as he had reached the end of the line!  Luckily he turned straight back round to do the opposite route after a flip of his sign and let us stay on free of charge, so not money, but yes time, was lost.  We did get a free tour of the surrounding villages I guess.

When we finally arrived and were checked over by the officials, we were given directions to the boat.  Now I haven't visited a whole load of boats in my life, but I'm pretty sure that the ones I have been lucky to look round have all been tied up to the shore.  The Chileans, it seems, want to give you the real sailing experience and therefore, the boat was anchored a good twenty feet from the deck. "How did you get across?", you ask.  Not with a dingy.  Not with a snorkel and flippers.  No, no.  We all climbed down a rickety ladder to a makeshift raft, guided to the ship by only two ropes, attached to which were two strapping young sailors hauling us along to our destination.  I wonder if that was the "sailing" they had in mind when they signed up to the Chilean navy.  Health and Safety in the UK would have had a fit, especially with the young children running around, but I thought it was a novel way to travel and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

The ship itself was actually rather morbid.  There were plaques marking every single place a sailor fell in the battles, including the formidable Arturo Prat, whose name adorns many a sign and street in this fair country, and until that moment I had no idea as to why.  He was a lawyer and navy officer who fought until his dying day on the Huáscar, this ship.  There were many items concerning him and his life on board, including a letter written to his wife with the news of his death, and her touching response, thanking the officer for his kind words and commemorating the work that her husband had done for his country.

Below deck we got to see how they lived, where they ate, and even how they loaded the bombs into the cannon in battle.  To help illustrate these activities, life-size models were used.  I can't help thinking that the artist got his inspiration for the facial hair from a certain Bradley Wiggins...




It was a great day out and you really got a sense of what life would have been like on board.  I would recommend a visit to El Huáscar to anyone in the area.  At just 1000 pesos it's real value for money, and there's frequent buses marked "Base Naval" that you can get from Calle O'Higgins, (NOT SAN MARTIN!!) Concepción.

And off to the beach we go...

It seems that Concepción is going through the change of the seasons, meaning that as we head into Springtime the weather is getting warmer and we are seeing more and more clear blue skies!  This makes one very happy Karina!

So what better idea than to head to the beach?!  In Concepción we are blessed to be only thirty minutes away from a beach, and we have a selection to choose from.

With three friends I headed to Ramuntcho, a beautiful little cove surrounded by woods.  It's situated on the Pacific Coast, which means that the water is clear and blue, but very very cold!  Needless to say I didn't bathe in those waters.  I didn't even dare dip a toe in!  I think I will save that experience for when we are in Summertime, when the air temperature will hopefully be slightly more agreeable after plunging into the icy blue depths of the Pacific.

Apparently this beach is a hotspot in the summer months as people go to camp over night and sit round a bonfire soaking up the scenery.  I can't wait to give that a go.  I can tell it will be magical!

After lazing on the beach and doing cartwheels we headed off on the hour-long trek to the neighbouring beach of Lenga.  It's a windy trail that leads you up and down along the coastline, with some spectacular views along the way.  To give a gauge of just how beautiful it is, there was even a film crew using it as their location for their latest movie.  Half way through we came across a part with a log bridge, and I just couldn't resist re-enacting the scene in Dirty Dancing when they dance to "Hey Baby" on the log.  Sad but fun!

On arrival in Lenga, we went in search of Empanadas de Marisco as they are supposed to be the tastiest around.  We bought a mixture of mussel and cheese filled ones at a cost £5 for a dozen.  We sat and ate them on the sea wall, listening to the waves and watching the seagulls swooping to and fro.  It was at that point that I decided Empanadas de Marisco are the equivalent of our fish and chip supper by the sea.  They are almost as yummy too, and definitely equally naughty for the waistline!