And so we bathe in volcanic waters...

The Termas Geométricas, a collection of beautiful, natural thermal baths, were a "must see" on our trip to the South of Chile.

Located at just two short bus rides away from our base in Pucón, in the lakeside town of Coñaripe, they are extremely accessible using public transport. Indeed, in general I have been impressed with the public transport system everywhere I have visited in Chile so far.  After a quick look around this bustling hub of shops selling pan amasado, a type of bread cooked in the ashes of a fire to give it a warming, smokey taste, and home-made cheese, honey and jam among other products, we rapidly located our transfer man, Sergio.  Not only was he a mini bus driver, he also doubled up as a font of all knowledge, giving us a guided tour of the surrounding countryside, relaying facts about the Mapuche people who resided there and commenting on life in general!

We passed houses, animals, crops, wood-cutting machinery and even a small, quaint school, all belonging to the Mapuches.  Sergio informed us that there were only about twenty-five students attending the school, and they all spoke both Mapudungun and Castellano.  Apparently, one of the community's main sources of income is selling the wood from the surrounding lands.  We saw men using an enormous electric chainsaw to cut down the trees and slice them into planks, but evidence of previous methods was still visible in the form of old machines that must have been powered by steam as they resembled baby Hogwarts Expresses!

Our guide also showed us the wonders of Mother Nature, as he pointed out how from the root of an old, dead tree, a new one blossoms and is protected from the old bark during its growth.  Absolutely fascinating! Add to all that the river that changes colour depending on the time of day and you've got yourself one very special corner of the world.






The site of the baths really was, as a hippy guy in the hostel had described it, hypnotic.  Picture this: the sound of rushing water behind and in front of the towering rocks lining the area, the sun diffusing through gaps in the trees, everywhere glowing a vibrant, healthy green.  There were waterfalls, streams, and seventeen different pools to choose from.

We practically had this haven to ourselves, meaning that we could take our pick of the baths and come and go as we pleased.  However, we did end up raiding the bath that a couple had been occupying for at least two hours.  Upon entry, we realised why it was so appealing.  The temperature of the water was divine!  I drifted in and out of consciousness, of that I am sure.  I felt slightly hypnotised and in a dreamlike state.

The design of these baths had Japanese culture as its inspiration, with red wooden cabins dotted all over, allowing you to change in peace and serenity.  There definitely was a certain "zen" throughout the area.  I think these baths would be perfect for a romantic honeymoon holiday destination, especially when night falls and four hundred candles are lit, illuminating the calm, smouldering waters.





If I had to choose just one word to sum up the Termas Geométricas, it would have to be "paradise".

And onwards to the Lake District: Chile's answer to Switzerland...

If you are looking for a little corner of Switzerland, complete with placid lakes, gushing waterfalls, greenery blooming everywhere you turn and snow-topped peaks, then look no further than El Chico Sur and the Lake District.  A place full of surprising scenery, magical places and the best German kuchen I've tasted outside Germany!

With Jessica, a Chilean friend from Concepción, I started the cold, exhausting journey from Conce bus station at 12.30am.  It took 4 hours to reach the city of Temuco where we had to wait in the bus station until our connecting bus passed at 5.30am.  I was surprised at how busy the station was at such an early hour.  I was even more surprised at how a little three year old boy was running up and down, up and down the station with such gusto while we were flaking despite copious amounts of coffee!  Oh to be young again!  The lack of sleep was definitely no problem though, as the buses are so comfortable, and all passengers are provided with a pillow and blanket so I had no trouble nodding off when we boarded the second bus and declined back into our "semi-beds".

By the time we arrived at our final destination, picturesque Pucón, the sun had risen and the birds were tweeting merrily.  I could tell the town was going to be quaint, as even the bus station resembled a cosy log cabin.  Ravaged with hunger, we entered the first place that looked likely to serve food, and tucked into a portion of Manjar pancakes; so nice, we ordered them twice!

Our hostel, La Bicicleta, especially noticeable as it was adorned with an old bike perched on the roof, was excellent value for money, providing a twin room for the price of an eight bed dorm in many other establishments.  The host, José, runs the business with his wife, and they also live in the building with their three adorable children.  Having met in Viña, the couple decided they wanted more than a 9 to 5 office job in their home town so they upped and left to start a small bike rental business in San Pedro de Atacama, renting  them from a popular cafe for tourists.  After the birth of their first baby, they decided to follow José's dream of running a hostal and moved to Pucón.  They currently rent the wooden construction, but desire to buy and expand it in the near future.  Every morning we woke up to a wonderful sight as our bedroom window looked onto the towering snow-topped Villarica volcano.  Sometimes the clouds were floating in just the right position to give the impression that it was blowing its top!

The presence of not only Volcán Villarica, but also four other volcanoes in this region alone, reminded me once more that I am currently residing in a country of extreme natural beauty but at times this nature can be devastating to the flora and fauna surrounding it.  There were evacuation signs throughout the town in case of eruption, and later in the trip we were informed that Villarica was one of the most active volcanoes in Chile.  Despite this, hundreds of tourists attempt to reach its summit each year, and it must be said that unfortunately not all succeed.  Needless to say Jessica and I did not take that risk, and instead opted for the enchanting experience provided by the Termas Geométricas.

See my next post to find out about our thermal spa and national park adventures...

And so Marc Anthony wows the Chilean crowd...

Thousands of screaming women, fights for seats, sparkly bandanas, a slick live band, singers shaking their 'tushy' at the request of excited fans...it could only be a Marc Anthony concert!

I've been lucky enough to go to a fair few music concerts in my time.  There is always an electric atmosphere, with excitement and expectation filling the air.  With this in mind, I expected a concert in another country to be very similar to my previous experiences.  How wrong I was!

Picture this: ten thousand ladies of all ages (and the odd grumpy husband dragged along for company) packed like sardines into the local football stadium, being extremely flirty with the performers, singing in unison about the "cute little thing" on stage and chanting that he move his "tail".  Needless to say, Marc Anthony did not disappoint, and granted the wishes of thousands of screaming fans by wiggling his hips and blowing kisses down the microphone, sending the hearts of his fans racing.  I actually thought the woman next to me was going to faint on many occasions, she was so mesmerised by this Puerto Rican god of salsa!

I was surprised that there were still seats left for the gig when we purchased them just three days beforehand.    On arrival at the stadium one hour before "kick-off", the reason was plain; they sold far more tickets than there was space in the stadium.  After scanning the stand for a good ten minutes, we finally spotted an empty space up in the Gods.  However, when we got there, a singular pink scarf was "reserving" the space for girls who had nipped to the loo.  Tati decided that the girls had lost their chance and so sat in the reserved seat, an act which was met with evil eyes and complaints from the entire surrounding crowd!  The atmosphere suddenly turn sinister, as more and more people expressed their distaste of the girls who had moved in to steal spaces. It got to the point where a friend of the absent fans threatened to physically remove Tati from the bench.  Very tense moments!  At my suggestion we joined the squished people on the stairwell, which provided us with a spectacular view of the stage and big screens, although I couldn't help thinking it was a definite health and safety risk to have so many blocking the exit.

Another difference I noticed was the range of souvenirs available.  There was everything from sparkly bandanas displaying the name of the artist to printed cushions of the act's latest poster.  Of course the usual light up wands and devil horns were also for sale.  I bought a hat on the way out, which was pleasingly being sold at half the original price.

The title of the concert was "Los dos gigantes" and so Marc Anthony was joined by another 'legend' Chayanne.  I have to say, apart from physically, Chayanne and his music did nothing for me.  It was a bit too eighties pop for my liking, but his accompanying dancers were extremely talented.

Overall the experience was great, and I am seriously considering going to see another salsa legend, Luis Enrique, next week.